Eggs Benedict | Shutters-on-the-Beach

Brunch. I love it so much I use it almost exclusively as a verb. When I brunch I do eggs benedict. I love eggs benedict so much I eat it almost exclusively when I brunch.

To this single-minded passion I have devoted many a champagne Sunday. And now, an ongoing series of reviews in search of the best eggs benedict for brunch in L.A...

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First up is a classic:

Pedals Cafe at Shutters-on-the-Beach

Location, location, location -- for that, Shutters simply can't be beat. And the eggs benedict isn't too bad either.

Shutters "Hotel on the Beach" is a gorgeous, historic hotel located -- you guessed it -- on the beach boardwalk in Santa Monica, right on the sand with the bike path meandering past and the ocean only a few whispers away. It's a venue favored for Polaroid moments and life-changing events.

On a typical beautiful weekend in L.A. (like, every weekend), you'll find a great view of the sun glinting off the water and the sweat glistening off the rollerbladers zooming by.

Everyone in L.A. loves to go to the beach on the weekend. And a great many of them like to brunch at Shutters, which is why reservations are strongly recommended -- especially if you have a large party (and you do, of course -- you've got guests in town and you want to show them a postcard-perfect time in "Hollywood").

So, make reservations at Pedals. (When you call Shutters to make reservations, make sure you make them for Pedals Cafe and not for One Pico, their "fancy" restaurant that's twice the price and no eggs benedict.) The best tables at Pedals are in the enclosed patio where you can enjoy Shutters' signature lush landscaping in full effect. Try to get one by the window for maximum ocean-and-rollerblader-view. Even with reservations, you might have to wait a little bit, but no biggie, Pedals has a full-service bar where you can get your Bloody Mary on.

After a few of those Sunday staples (the Bloody Marys are spicy, with just enough pepper, crisp celery and not too watery), it's on to the food. The eggs benedict -- the eggs layered over thick slabs of grilled ham on toasted english muffins -- comes with potatoes home-fried with onions. The hollandaise, the color of Crayola goldenrod, is tasty enough, albeit a little heavy. But sad to say, Pedals is not very consistent with their eggs bene. Sometimes it will be perfectly poached, eggs just a little runny, and other times it will be over hard. And the potatoes are a little dry. Truthfully though, I'm not much of a fan of home-fried potatoes -- I'd rather have heart-attack hash browns any day.

Overall, the eggs benedict are good, okay, nothing special... But the hot chocolate. The hot chocolate is amazing and comes with real whipped cream. Ask for extra on the side. Also, the pancakes and waffles look good, come with fresh fruit, and my co-brunchers thoroughly enjoy them. It's a solid showing of typical hotel brunch fare: satisfying, but not terribly spectacular.

At $18 an entree, you'd expect a little more for your hard-earned dollaz. But hey, people go to Shutters for the location and the ambiance, and to celebrate birthdays, weddings, and take lots and lots and lots of pictures -- for enjoying a dreamy California beach morning, Shutters can't be beat. And that's why this brunch is 90% Shutters, 10% eggs benedict.

Venue *** / Vittles * / Value **
[* to *** scale]

Pedals Cafe at Shutters Hotel on the Beach
One Pico Boulevard, Santa Monica 90405
310.458.0030
www.shuttersonthebeach.com
Brunch Saturday & Sunday / 11 - 5
photo credit www.besthotelsresorts.com